Seychelles Travel Journal

An unforgettable island retreat at Coco de Mer.

The captain’s incomprehensible intercom voice wakes me from half-sleep. The sight that greets me from the windows makes me think I’m not entirely awake.



We’re coming in for the landing and to my right I see tropical jungle and to my left the blinding morning sun bouncing off the Indian Ocean. “Is this a sea plane?” I ask the flight attendant and she smiles, impervious to my apparent bewilderment.

We land smoothly. On the ground. At Mahé International Airport; Mahé being the biggest island on the Seychelles archipelago.

The granite islands of the Seychelles archipelago comprises 115 islands occupying a land area of 455 km², cluster around the main island of Mahé. Coming from the sub-zero temperatures of Johannesburg, the heat hits me like a tidal wave. It’s 7.30 am and already the mercury hovers at around 29 degrees Celsius and the humidity is high.

Verena from Select Seychelles greets me with a beaming smile and “fast tracks” me through customs. The queues at passport control go on for miles but I get treated like royalty – in fact, the only people in the queue before me are the international footballer rock star Zanetti and his wife and children.

We board a caravan from the airport straight away to the island of Praslin. The smallish plane drones on like a vuvuzela in pain and takes off with a roller-coaster action type thing in the fierce wind. I turn my attention to the myriad hues of greens and blues of the magnificent ocean beneath us in order to distract me from my impending shuffle off this mortal coil. The flight takes only 15 minutes – thank goodness - and Herweit, the man who is to be my guide for the two days, picks me up at the quaint airport in his smart 4x4.

I stare in wonderment at the undulating, mountainous jungle on the one side and the blue, blue sea on the other, fringed by a million palm trees. We arrive at the modern 4-star hotel of Coco de Mer which lies in over 200 acres of natural beauty on the edge of the Indian Ocean. The hotel reminds of an age of yore – elegant and timeless with a casual and tranquil tropical island paradise ambiance. I see families with kids of all ages everywhere.

After a quick breakfast, my host Ash shows me to my air-conditioned room. It is huge and airy, decorated in blues and greens, almost right on the beach. There is a little private nook with a couch, which could be replaced by a bed for a child, and the room is purposely big enough to accommodate a family of four.

I have a heavenly shower to rid myself somewhat of the fatigue and time loss of the five-hour flight from home. I contemplate sleep but instead I sit on my private balcony in reverie, listening to the rustle of the palms and watching the sea before turn colour from different shades of sapphire to light grey as clouds lazily drift before the sun. A drizzle, like the touch of a feather, brings some relief from the humidity and heat. After lunch, I board a most fabulous wooden yacht en-route to La Digue Island.

This is an excursion the kids would go wild for. The waves play like white horses beneath the boat and we pass a myriad of small, uninhabited islands in the middle of the world. A timeless oasis, hidden away in the vast expanse of the Indian Ocean, guarded by warm azure waters and fringed by teeming reefs, La Digue is the Seychelles of yesterday. A world away from the hustle and bustle of the modern world, La Digue basks in the ageless peace of a Seychelles almost unchanged since the earliest settlers stumbled upon the islands and claimed to have discovered the Garden of Eden.

My host, Noelle meets me as we alight. Her warm, smiling face belies a deep sadistic streak – she makes me ride a bicycle. For miles. I haven’t ridden a bicycle for about 20 years but I guess it’s like, well, riding a bicycle and after a couple of embarrassing incidents I hit my stride. After a while I feel as free as that kid in the movie the Kite Runner – when things were still good, innocent and pure.

The villagers and tourists, young and old all ride bikes; a small truck from time to time is the only reminder that actual vehicles are to be found. This is another reason the entire family will love this adventure – it is completely safe and the scenery is breathtaking as you gently ride past the quaintest of buildings, all built in the French colonial style.

She takes me to a barely noticeable enclosure consisting of a tiny wall and there, before my eyes, I see beasts and dinosaurs from a million light years yore. I nearly fall off my bike – again - at the sight of the Aldabra Giant Tortoises. These lumbering beasts, which can live for centuries, can be spotted across the island. In the last light of the sun, I take a swim in the same sea where Robinson Crusoe built his house in the movie.


An unforgettable island retreat at Coco de Mer.
Page: 2
Back at Coco de Mer I am joined for dinner by the entertaining and charming Arturo, the hotel’s operations manager. Dinner consists of a superb fillet in red wine. The food here is great – full of flavour and unpretentious. Arturo has ...

Page: 3
Accommodation is in 87 private Villas, 29 of which have private pools. All are set on a 220-hectare private island, surrounded by one of the largest Marine Parks in the Indian Ocean. It is also family-friendly but, as with Desroches, i ...