Background
The Comoros islands got their name from early Arab seafarers, who named this tiny archipelago Djazair al Qamar - 'Islands of the Moon'. Probably they were referring to the crescent moon of Islam, and the moon remains on the Comorian flag to this day. The word Qamar, or moon, became corrupted into Comores in French, and then Comoros in English to form the country's modern-day name.
It's easy, however, to slip into a more romantic frame of mind and imagine that these early visitors were inspired by the brilliant tropical moon that hangs in the night sky above the palm trees, white beaches and crumbling Swahili ruins of the Comoros.
It would be fair to say that the Comoros islands are just about as far off the beaten track as it's possible to get. Most people in Europe or America will give you only a blank stare if you mention the islands' name.
Because of their history of political instability (there have been 20 coups d'etat in the years since independence), the Comorian tourist industry is still in a fledgling state, with no hotels of international standard on the three islands that make up the Republic of the Comoros (the fourth island in the group, Mayotte is still an overseas territory of France).
But if you're the sort of traveller to whom remoteness, uncertainty and lack of a tourist trade are a positive draw, it's well worth paying the Comoros a visit. The three islands of Grand Comore, Mohéli and Anjouan between them offer active volcanoes, dazzling white sand beaches, lush rainforests and coral reefs.
The Comoros' other major draw is the Comorians themselves - friendly people descended from Arab traders, Persian sultans, African slaves and Portuguese pirates. Today their Swahili-speaking culture remains strong, and the Comoros are a fascinating addition to any trip to the better-known Swahili islands of Zanzibar in Tanzania and Lamu in Kenya. Their proximity to Madagascar also means that it's relatively easy to add a trip to the Comoros to a holiday there.
What to see…
Grand Comore (known as Ngazidja by the Comorians) is largest and most developed economically of the three islands. Away from the handsome main town, Moroni, the island is dominated by the 2361m Mt Karthala, the largest active volcano in the world, which last erupted in the 1970s, burying a nearby village.
The island is fringed by sandy beaches that vary in colour from brilliant white to dark volcanic grey. There's a small amount of agricultural land in the south, where there are banana, cassava, breadfruit, vanilla, ylang-ylang and coconut plantations. The central part of the island in the north features dramatic landscapes of black solidified lava. Most of the island's population live on the west coast, while the east coast remains quiet and traditional, with only a few tiny thatched-hut villages.
An Afternoon in Moroni
Moroni is a traditional Swahili town, consisting mainly of white buildings constructed in the Arabic style with high walls and flat roofs. In the town centre is a small Arab quarter, or Medina, with narrow streets and carved wooden doors.
Many happy hours can be spent here, wandering, playing with the local children, and chatting with the old men, many dressed in the traditional kanzu (long white robe) and kofia (skull cap), who congregate outside the mosques for a game of dominoes or bao (an ancient African game played using a board carved with 32 holes).
Moroni's most impressive structure along the waterfront is the off-white, two-storey Old Friday mosque. This structure, with its rows of colonnades and tall, square minaret, dates back to 1427, though the minaret was added early in the 20th century.
To see the interior of any of the mosques, you'd have to be male, appropriately dressed (in long trousers) and go through the ritual washing of the feet before entering. Moroni's bazaar and old covered market are a great place to while away a few hours amongst a hectic mess of noise, smell and colour.
The female vendors mostly wear gaily coloured chiromani (cloth wraps) and often have their faces plastered in yellow sandalwood paste. They squat over their piles of fruit, vegetables and fish, waving half heartedly at clouds of flies while the throngs of pedestrians and vehicles jostle past.
In amongst the crowd are boys selling racks of plastic sunglasses, Moslem clerics preaching to the crowds, and grubby children playing intricate games in the dust. The men in the bazaar don't generally mind being photographed or filmed, although it's polite to ask first, but expect a torrent of abuse if you point your camera at the ladies!
Anjouan, the second largest of the three islands, is fondly called the 'Pearl of the Comoros' by the locals. The Anjounais, as the inhabitants of the island are known, are very proud of their identity, and the island has several times declared independence from the rest of the Comoros.
Anjouan is arguably the most picturesque of the Comoros, as it's thickly covered with clove trees, banana plants, ylang-ylang plantations and endless stands of coconut palm trees. Through this verdant landscape swaying ladies walk with their loads of firewood or stacks of cassava, while their men, machetes in hand, set off in the cool mornings to cut new palm thatch for their roofs.
Anjouan's highlands are a blissful place to escape the relentless tropical heat - the air is blissfully cool and grey, swirling mists often descend, with moisture dripping from the stately trees onto the lush forest floor. First impressions of Mutsamudu, Anjouan's capital, are not promising.
The streets of the town and the sea beach are unbelievably filthy, with piles of rubbish filling every nook and cranny. Surprisingly healthy looking cattle move slowly across this sea of ordure, munching on anything that looks vaguely edible.
Learn to turn a blind eye to the rubbish, however, and you'll start to other aspects of the town - the views from the ruined citadel, for example, or the narrow, spice-scented streets of the old Arab town, or medina, even more impressive than that of Moroni on Grand Comore. The seafront has a friendly, laid-back atmosphere, and the locals are friendly, warm and welcoming.
Once outside the town, Anjouan offers many interesting walks. Beware, however - once off the main roads, the paths are generally seasonal and very confusing - you'll either need to take a local guide with you or keep asking the way. Luckily the inhabitants of Anjouan are extremely friendly and happy to help, often walking several kilometres out of their way to put strangers on the right track.
Mohéli is the smallest and least developed island of the three. It's well worth a visit, however, especially if you are a lover of nature. The south coast, coral reefs and dramatic, craggy offshore islets are all protected by the Parc Marin de Mohe'li, the only national park in the Comoros, which protects marine life such as dolphins as well as land mammals like the giant Livingstone's fruit bat.
If you're a keen birder, head to Lac Boundouni on the western edge of the island, while if mammals are more your thing, there's even a good chance of spotting the rare mongoose lemur in the remaining stands of rainforest. Another plus of Mohéli is the presence of an excellent ecotourism project funded by the European Union, which means that simple bungalow accommodation is easy to find in attractive spots all over the island.
And what to avoid…
The Mahorais, as the people of Mayotte are called, are known as 'the spoilt children of the French Republic' by the other Comorians. It's easy to see why - once you arrive, as it quickly becomes evident that the Mahorais are considerably less friendly than the inhabitants of the other three Comoros. The French hoteliers and restaurateurs who serve the island's community of French expatriates are for the most part snooty in the extreme and do little to make non-French visitors feel at all welcome.
In addition to the rather sour atmosphere of the island, Mayotte is also a VERY expensive place - the well-paid French bureaucrats ensure that the prices charged for meals and private transport are the same, or more, than in Europe, and bargaining is all but impossible. If you're an underwater enthusiast you might still want to visit Mayotte for its fantastic diving, sailing and snorkelling opportunities; but other travellers would be advised to give it a miss.
Eating
The Comoros are naturally blessed with an abundance of mouthwatering ingredients - fresh fish, seafood and shellfish from the shoals that surround the islands, endless tropical fruit from their many plantations and a good supply of herbs and spices to keep everything interesting. Formal restaurants of the kind seen in the Western world, however, are few and far between.
Even in the simplest guesthouses, however, you'll be able to sample curries made with coconut milk, grilled meat on skewers, and rich bean stews, all served up in smallish portions on a bed of cassava, (mhogo in Swahili), the islands' staple food. The prices for fish and seafood prices are relatively low, so all but those on the smallest of budgets can gorge without any difficulty.
Tropical fruits such as mangos, lychees, and bananas of all shapes and sizes are available for dessert, with fresh fruit juice (usually made with untreated water!) to wash it all down. Even better (and safe to drink) are the young coconuts - get someone to split one open for you and then drink the sweet, vitamin-packed juice inside. After the meal, sit back, relax and enjoy tea or coffee spiced with lemongrass or ginger. Syrupy Arabic coffee, sipped from tiny cups, is sold at the roadside in many towns and villages.
Sleeping
Outside Mayotte, the Comoros are very short on hotels, so be prepared to rough it somewhat. That said, many of the pensions and guesthouses you'll find dotted around are clean, simple and welcoming, and provide an excellent way of getting to know some ordinary Comorians.
Grand Comore
Since the closure of *Le Galawa Beach hotel at the northern tip of the island, the Royal Itsandra Hotel just north of Moroni holds the dubious honour of being the best beach hotel in Grand Comore. The rooms and public areas are rather charmless and un-atmospheric, but it has a lovely private beach and a good restaurant.
The rooms have sea views as and a few modern comforts such as TV and full size bathtubs. If you want western-style entertainment, there's a casino and piano bar to provide the nightlife. Once a week there's also a seafood buffet outside among the palm trees.
Anjouan
Anjouan has no beach hotels at all only a couple of guesthouses scattered around the coast. The nicest beach is Moya Plage, where you can stay in some basic but adequate bungalows with superb views and enjoy a superb lobster meal cooked by the friendly owner of the Moya Plage Hotel.
In Mutsumudu, the choice is between Hotel Al Quitoa, a simple guesthouse featuring a cosy bar with the beer served by the friendly and informative French owner, and Hotel Al Amal, which purports to be an international business hotel, boasting a swimming pool (full of rubble) and a private beach (covered in oil). The rooms are modern and the dishes on the restaurant menu are ambitious, but usually unavailable.
Mohéli
The only proper beach hotel on the island is Mohe'li Bungalows, which enjoys a great position on a semi-private beach, with a garden and outdoor terrace. The bungalows are simple but decent and have fans and mosquito nets, but no hot water. It's located in the friendly village of Itsamia, making it handy for excursions to the Marine National Park, but it's overpriced and often full, especially during Mayotte's school holidays.
The other options for accommodation around the island are the various eco-bungalows run by locals as part of a European Union tourism scheme. They are basic in the extreme but can provide camping facilities, shelter and running water at various scenic points around the island. From the sites, local guides are available to show visitors colonies of giant fruit bats and sea turtles.
Transport
The simplest way to get to the Comoros is by air. Regular flights link Grand Comore with Zanzibar, Nairobi, Mayotte and Madagascar. Once you've arrived, you can take the small planes that hop between each island, or opt for the less certain but more adventurous option of a cargo boat - just go down to the docks on Grand Comore and Moroni and ask what's going!
Cultural Do's and Don'ts
- DON'T buy large shells, turtle shells, or pieces of coral from street or beach vendors. These are mostly taken from endangered reefs and marine species and buying them only encourages the destruction of the Comoros' ocean fauna.
- DON'T walk around towns and villages in the Comoros dressed in bikinis, miniskirts or similar clothing. Modest dress is requested of all tourists in keeping with the Islamic faith of most of the island's inhabitants. Women should cover their shoulders and wear trousers or skirts that reach below the knee. Men should not walk without t-shirts.
- DON'T go topless on the beaches of the Comoros Bikinis and swimwear are acceptable on tourist beaches, but not if there are fisherman or seaweed harvesters nearby.
- DO be careful about walking on the beach or on deserted parts of the island late at night or early in the morning. DON'T carry valuables on the beach or walk alone.
- DO remember that during the month of Ramadan, while Muslims are fasting, it is considered the height of bad manners to eat, smoke or drink on the street or in public places.
- DO remember to ask permission before taking pictures of people or private houses.
- DON'T forget that the Comoros is a conservative Moslem society. Although alcohol is available on the islands, drunken behaviour is not regarded with tolerance but is considered offensive by most people.
- DON'T give presents of money to children as this will encourage begging.
- If invited to share a meal with locals, don't pass food or eat with the left hand - this is considered unclean and the height of bad manners.
Copyright © Gemma Pitcher
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