Destination Report Comoros

Tropical fruits such as mangos, lychees, and bananas of all shapes and sizes are available for dessert, with fresh fruit juice (usually made with untreated water!) to wash it all down. Even better (and safe to drink) are the young coconuts – get someone to split one open for you and then drink the sweet, vitamin-packed juice inside. After the meal, sit back, relax and enjoy tea or coffee spiced with lemongrass or ginger. Syrupy Arabic coffee, sipped from tiny cups, is sold at the roadside in many towns and villages.

Sleeping

Outside Mayotte, the Comoros are very short on hotels, so be prepared to rough it somewhat. That said, many of the pensions and guesthouses you’ll find dotted around are clean, simple and welcoming, and provide an excellent way of getting to know some ordinary Comorians.

Grand Comore

Since the closure of *Le Galawa Beach hotel at the northern tip of the island, the Royal Itsandra Hotel just north of Moroni holds the dubious honour of being the best beach hotel in Grand Comore. The rooms and public areas are rather charmless and un-atmospheric, but it has a lovely private beach and a good restaurant.

The rooms have sea views as and a few modern comforts such as TV and full size bathtubs. If you want western-style entertainment, there’s a casino and piano bar to provide the nightlife. Once a week there’s also a seafood buffet outside among the palm trees.

*Le Galawa will be re-opened 13th March 2005.

Anjouan

Anjouan has no beach hotels at all only a couple of guesthouses scattered around the coast. The nicest beach is Moya Plage, where you can stay in some basic but adequate bungalows with superb views and enjoy a superb lobster meal cooked by the friendly owner of the Moya Plage Hotel.

In Mutsumudu, the choice is between Hotel Al Quitoa, a simple guesthouse featuring a cosy bar with the beer served by the friendly and informative French owner, and Hotel Al Amal, which purports to be an international business hotel, boasting a swimming pool (full of rubble) and a private beach (covered in oil). The rooms are modern and the dishes on the restaurant menu are ambitious, but usually unavailable.

Mohéli

The only proper beach hotel on the island is Mohe'li Bungalows, which enjoys a great position on a semi-private beach, with a garden and outdoor terrace. The bungalows are simple but decent and have fans and mosquito nets, but no hot water. It’s located in the friendly village of  Itsamia, making it handy for excursions to the Marine National Park, but it’s overpriced and often full, especially during Mayotte's school holidays.

The other options for accommodation around the island are the various eco-bungalows run by locals as part of a European Union tourism scheme. They are basic in the extreme but can provide camping facilities, shelter and running water at various scenic points around the island. From the sites, local guides are available to show visitors colonies of giant fruit bats and sea turtles.

Transport

The simplest way to get to the Comoros is by air. Regular flights link Grand Comore with Zanzibar, Nairobi, Mayotte and Madagascar. Once you’ve arrived, you can take the small planes that hop between each island, or opt for the less certain but more adventurous option of a cargo boat – just go down to the docks on Grand Comore and Moroni and ask what’s going!

Cultural Do’s and Don’ts

• DON’T buy large shells, turtle shells, or pieces of coral from street or beach vendors. These are mostly taken from endangered reefs and marine species and buying them only encourages the destruction of the Comoros’ ocean fauna.
• DON’T walk around towns and villages in the Comoros dressed in bikinis, miniskirts or similar clothing. Modest dress is requested of all tourists in keeping with the Islamic faith of most of the island’s inhabitants. Women should cover their shoulders and wear trousers or skirts that reach below the knee. Men should not walk without t-shirts.
• DON’T go topless on the beaches of the Comoros Bikinis and swimwear are acceptable on tourist beaches, but not if there are fisherman or seaweed harvesters nearby.

• DO be careful about walking on the beach or on deserted parts of the island late at night or early in the morning. DON’T carry valuables on the beach or walk alone.
• DO remember that during the month of Ramadan, while Muslims are fasting, it is considered the height of bad manners to eat, smoke or drink on the street or in public places.
• DO remember to ask permission before taking pictures of people or private houses.

• DON’T forget that the Comoros is a conservative Moslem society. Although alcohol is available on the islands, drunken behaviour is not regarded with tolerance but is considered offensive by most people.
• DON’T give presents of money to children as this will encourage begging.
• If invited to share a meal with locals, don’t pass food or eat with the left hand – this is considered unclean and the height of bad manners.

Copyright © Gemma Pitcher 2004