The Seychelles: Country Profile

The most accessible is the St Anne Marine National Park off Mahe, a splendid excursion for diving, snorkelling, swimming, sunning and some remarkably good al fresco lunching. If you are even vaguely aquaphobic, there is a semi-submersible craft in which one can sit in comfort as a kaleidoscope of reef fish swim past or gaze in at you in goggle-eyed wonder.

On the other side of Mahe are the Baie Ternay and the Port Launay Marine National Parks, and off Praslin the Curieuse Marine National Park and the Cousin Island Special Reserve. Apart from the natural beauty of the reefs themselves, the seas are filled with an extraordinary abundance of species, from tiny swimming jewels to the great whale shark, the largest fish in the ocean.

Back on land again, probably the most famous denizens of the Seychelles are the giant land tortoises. Aldabra, because of its isolation, has the biggest colony, perhaps 150,000 of them, but there are healthy populations elsewhere, including on the inner islands.

Mammals are not so common, apart from the Seychelles fruit bat, which unfortunately often ends up in the curry pot. But there is the tenrec, an ancient little creature which looks a little like a cross between a hairbrush and a rat, and which was introduced to the islands in the last century.

There are also geckos, lizards, skinks and chameleons, snakes and terrapins, and the smallest frog in the world, a little croaker that will fit happily on a finger nail. There are some special places, apart from the specific birding destinations like Aride, Cousin and Ile aux Vaches.

The Vallee de Mai National Park and World Heritage Site is one. The second-largest island in the inner group is Praslin, best known for the Vallee, but also for its beaches and hostelries. The Vallee is home to that extraordinary piece of flora, the Coco de Mer palm, and one of the world's rarest birds, the black parrot.

On Mahe, wander around one of the world's smallest capital cities, Victoria. Visit the now-ruined Mission, established as a school for the children of slaves. Walk and climb in the often mist-shrouded mountains, perhaps to find that diminutive frog, pitcher plants or maybe even a nest of that scops owl, which lives only in these mountains.

Hire a beach buggy or a bicycle and visit one of the seemingly endless number of splendid beaches, coves and secret places around the coast. Explore craft markets and art galleries. Go sailing or deep-sea fishing. And just how is paradise maintained? The econom of the Seychelles is based on eco-tourism.

The government realised long ago that if the idyllic natural environment of the islands became degraded in any way, the tourists would simply stop coming and the economy would collapse. The islands are run according to some of the most comprehensive, strictest and sensible environmental regulations in the world, and the handbook is the government's Environmental Management Plan, 1990-2000, 'Achieving Sustainable Development'.

In it, President Albert Rene writes: 'We live on small, remote islands with limited resources and vulnerable ecosystems, but that should not mean that we have to be islands unto ourselves. We therefore dedicate this Plan to all Seychellois, young and old, as well as to the world, since the management and protection of the environment is a global challenge and responsibility'.

The Seychelles really are as good as they sound. The natural environment is about as pristine as it gets, the holiday attractions range from sophisticated to quaint island style and the Seychellois themselves are charming. So, maybe General Gordon was right.

Seychelles Fact File

Getting there:

Air Seychelles has direct flights to London and other European destinations, Nairobi and Johannesburg, Dubai and Singapore. Getting about: Air Seychelles runs regular shuttle services to all the major islands.

Accommodation:

There is a huge range, from rustic self-catering to five-star luxury.

Eating:

Seychellois cuisine is legendary and as varied as its ethnically mixed population, from spicy Creole to classic European.

Activities:

There are a number of top travel and tour agents on the islands, who can arrange anything from deep sea fishing or cruising to guided trails in the nature reserves.

Sports facilities:

Many, including the only golf course in a thousand miles.

When to go:

It's always summer, therefore hot and humid, but hottest in March/April (low 30os), coolest in July/August (mid 20os) and wettest December/January (but not seriously so).

Currency:

Seychelles Rupee (Sr) = 100 cents.

Language:

Creole, but English and French spoken widely.

Health:

Good health services; no malaria or other nasties.